A Guide to Prepare Nesselrode Pudding: A Recipe
The celebratory, frozen sweet chestnut pudding frequently attributed to the great nineteenth-century culinary master Antonin Carême, who conceded the fact that the decadent invention was from Monsieur Mony, cook for a Russian diplomat Nesselrode. It was served with a warm, alcoholic custard, although it is perfect as it is. It forms a wonderful holiday centrepiece.
Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6
125g Zante currants, or alternatively raisins or sultanas
50g fine chopped candied peel, minced
75ml maraschino, or another sweet alcohol you like (details below)
1 vanilla pod, split, or 1 tsp vanilla essence
600ml double cream
4 egg yolks
50g fine sugar
45g flaked almonds
125g vacuum-packed chestnuts, or chestnut paste
1 A Note on the Dried Fruits
Put the currants and peel and candied peel in a bowl. The original recipe is reported to have used currants along with raisins (although different dried fruits, or even any diced dried fruit of your choice, is suitable), as well as candied citron, the rind from a specific type of citrus. Specialty peel is found on the internet, as are other candied peels that prove superior compared to those chewy, greasy nubs sold in shops.
2 Regarding the Booze
Pour in the liqueur: maraschino, a classic Italian sour cherry liqueur, is the traditional selection, though alternate versions use an orange triple sec, cognac with noyaux, an almond-flavoured spirit made from apricot pits, or a combination of maraschino with dark rum. Madeira wine, sherry, port, etc, would also be fine, also. Soak the fruit for several hours, or leave overnight.
3 Infuse the Cream
Roughly sixty minutes ahead of time, slit the vanilla bean lengthwise and use a knife's edge to remove the seeds. Place these and the empty pod in a small saucepan with the cream, warm slowly just to a light boil, and then turn off the flame and leave to steep. (If using vanilla extract, stir in using it immediately.)
4 Beat the Caster Sugar and Yolks
Set the four yolks in a heatproof bowl by the cooker (reserve and freeze the whites for making drinks or pavlovas). Gently reheat the vanilla cream to reach a near-boil. At the same time, whisk the sugar together with the egg yolk mixture (for those with a preference for sweeter desserts, you might want to increase the amount of sugar to 75g).
5 Incorporate the Simmering Cream
Lift the vanilla pod from the hot cream, next vigorously whisk the hot cream into the bowl with the beaten yolks. Tip back into the saucepan, put it over a low heat and heat, mixing continuously, till the custard reaches a coating consistency where a distinct line can be drawn in it on the underside of the spoon. Set the pan into a basin filled with cold water to cool.
6 Process the Cooked Chestnuts
At this stage, toast the flaked almonds over dry heat until golden. If using whole cooked chestnuts, process them in a food processor, or grind into a fine powder with a mortar and pestle.
Remove the liquid from the soaked fruit, pour the liqueur with the chestnut powder and process once more till uniform mixture (if need be, mix in a bit of the custard to achieve the right consistency). For those using chestnut puree, just stir with the spirit.
7 Prepare the Ice-Cream
Transfer the boozy chestnut paste in a big basin, next gradually whisk into it the cooled custard until fully integrated. Freeze in an ice cream churner until fairly thick texture. Alternatively, transfer into a robust freezer-proof box, cover and place in the freezer for an hour, then take electric beaters or a wooden spoon to whisk vigorously. Repeat approximately every 30 minutes till thick and semi-set.
8 Fold in the Fruit and Nuts
After the base is thick and semi-frozen, gently mix the fruit and toasted almonds through it till thoroughly incorporated. Prepare a two-pint pudding basin or bread tin with clingfilm and spoon the pudding base inside (alternatively, use a well-greased specialty tin).
Pack solid and cover by folding the clingfilm across the top to seal.
